Living the life

Living the life
The US tour begins

Monday, April 20, 2009

Women’s Rights?

More like a woman wronged

It’s sometimes easy to lose sight of how good we have it. As Americans, we tend to take the many freedoms and privileges we enjoy for granted and consider them rights. Things like clean air, a safe water supply and relative equality for women.

Here in Dubai, with all of it’s glitz and glamour, one would assume that if they can build the world’s tallest building and brag of the world’s only seven-star hotel, that clean air and water would be a given. Well, that’s another topic. With regard to women’s rights, many of you are likely conjuring up images of subjugated women clad head-to-toe in black. Unfortunately, that is sometimes not so far off the mark.

As a Western woman living here as an expat, I enjoy most of the freedoms and rights I would at home. Unlike what I’d experience in more restrictive countries in the region such as Saudi Arabia, I can work, drive and wear a bikini on the beach. I can even buy a bottle of wine, with my husband’s permission, of course. But do women living in the U.A.E have equal rights?

Take the case of Marnie Pearce, a British mother of two, married to an Egyptian. I don’t know if her husband is a Muslim or not, and in this case it doesn’t matter. Depending on her domestic arrangement, she’s likely able to work, drive and even wear a bikini on the beach. But I’m sure those trivial matters are the least of her worries now because she may never again see her two sons, aged seven and four. She’s currently in prison serving a three-month sentence for adultery, which is a criminal offense in this country. Upon her release from jail she will promptly be deported to the UK and likely never allowed back into the U.A.E. The young boys will stay here, with their father.

Pearce had been separated from her husband for four months when police raided her Dubai home in March and found a British man in her bedroom. Her estranged husband had the Public Prosecutor file charges against her for “having consensual sex out of wedlock with another man.” (Imagine if she had been with “another woman!” Double whammy - homosexuality is illegal here as well.) Pearce testified at her trial that she was in the kitchen downstairs making a cup of tea when the officers arrived, and a male acquaintance was upstairs in the bedroom fixing her computer. She denies having any kind of inappropriate relationship with the man.

As it turns out the police didn’t raid her home on a random spot check. According to Pearce, her husband framed her. She claims HE was the one having an affair. His motivation for maliciously having her arrested is alleged to have been an attempt to assure himself custody of their two boys after their divorce. A mother convicted of an "honor crime" usually forfeits her right to apply for custody.

And there's more drama to the story. After losing her case on appeal, Pearce went on the run with her two children for a few weeks before finally turning herself in and handing the boys over to their father. Can you blame her? She knew she’d be deported following her sentence. What mother wouldn't risk further punishment for a few stolen weeks with her children? Shame she didn't make a run for the Omani border with them; she might have been able to flee to the UK from there. But in the meantime, while on the lam in the U.A.E. she’d have been stuck without any way to support herself and her family once her visa expired or was cancelled by her husband. Most women here (including myself) are in this country by the grace of their husband's sponsorship.

I learned from a local lawyer, Counselor P, that under U.A.E. law it is just as illegal for a man to commit adultery as it is for a woman. However, according to Counselor P, if a man is caught with say his Filipina maid (apparently this is not uncommon among local men), he merely claims that the woman is his third or fourth wife. "But wouldn't he have to prove that with documentation?" I naively ask. "Of course," says Counselor P, "but a marriage certificate is easily fabricated and back-dated. I've done it many times myself for clients." Nice.

So.....you be the judge. I am in no way suggesting that adultery is permissible or justified. Without a doubt it is morally wrong. But illegal? Come on. I wish I had access to the statistics of men vs. woman convicted of this crime. But what’s really frightening here is the peril of women and mothers. Ms. Pearce is the mother of that man's children, whether she boinked the Brit or not! There has been no suggestion that she's an unfit mother, or a drug addict, or that she is abusive. It appears that he’s being vindictive. And all of this in a country where men can have up to four wives AT THE SAME TIME and then even take a fifth, as long as he gives one of the first four the boot. Women's rights? This is dead wrong.

Thursday, April 16, 2009

Can a Gal Just Get a Coffee?


And what’s with the gas cans?

Here’s the scene: Stan and I had date night last night, so we were out a bit later than usual which led to sleeping in a bit later than normal which led to a bit of a time crunch for my morning. I had just enough time to sneak in my own yoga practice, jump in the shower, make a quick iced soy latte for the road and make it to my class in time to teach.

I finished my practice, turned on the shower, and I went to light the stove to put on my stovetop espresso maker. I lit the match and turned on the gas. Wait a minute, no whoosh of flame. Where’s the smell of gas? Hey! What’s going on here? If I can’t light the stove….I CAN’T MAKE MY COFFEE! Damn. No time to stress about it so I jumped in the shower, rushed to class, and grabbed a Starbuck’s after, no problem. All is well.

Here in Dubai, gas stoves run on cans of LP gas. There is a line that runs from the stove through a hole in the cement wall of our villa to the gas can that sits unsheltered out in the driveway. It’s kind of disturbing to think of a pressurized can of LP sitting out in the blazing temperatures of 120° Fahrenheit and upwards. It’s a wonder the things don’t spontaneously combust. But that’s just how it works.

We have an electric oven and there’s only the two of us, so even though I cook a lot we don’t go through that much gas. I recall only changing the canister twice in the 3 + years we lived here the last time. The gas does, however, tend to run out at inopportune times. I think Karen’s ran out one year when she was cooking Thanksgiving dinner. To me, this morning was just as inopportune a time for a gas outage. (MUST HAVE COFFEE FIX!)

By now I’m home from class, happily caffeinated and realize I must deal with the lack of gas, since it’s the weekend. If I don’t get gas today (Thursday) I’m out of luck until Saturday since no one works on Friday. This is where the fun starts and I ask myself: WHY IS EVERYTHING SO BLOODY COMPLICATED HERE????

It takes four phone calls to find the right gas can guy and then two phone calls to get him here because there are no street addresses in Dubai. Instead we have a much more accurate system: al Wasl to al Manara Street, right turn at the signal, left turn onto Street 36, 2nd villa right hand side past the mosque. Yep. Once I get the guy here, actually two guys (there are always at least two guys, one has to drive the truck!) he informs me that my old, empty gas can has expired. Expired? How does that work? I’m totally thinking he’s trying to pull one over on “Madam,” when he begins to wobble his head even faster. Seems the gas can itself HAD expired on 12/05. “VERY DANGEROUS MADAM!” Oh God! Who knew?

By this time I’ve made great friends with the gas guy, who is pretty passionate about his job. I start to get interested and he’s happy to educate me. The gas can is so old that he can’t take it, because it can’t be refilled. Translation: I have to buy an entire new can at 450 dirhams ($123) instead of just paying the refill price of 86 dirhams ($23).

“What? 450 dirhams? I haven’t got that much cash in the house!” (Only cash is accepted.)

“Yes, Madam. Can very old. Very dangerous. So old. I cannot return.” (More head wobble wobble.)

“But I don’t have that much money on me and I have to cook Sir dinner?”

“Madam, buy a little can.”

“A little can?”

“Yes, only 350 dirhams ($95).”

“Well that doesn’t sound like a good deal. Half the gas for nearly 2/3 the price?”

“No Madam. Big can 22 kilos. Half can 15 kilos. Small house, small family, small can very good.”

Oh my God. Fine.

“Will you at least take the expired can away?” I ask.

“Madam, you no need it?” Shoot me now. What would I do with it? Cut the top off and have Abdul the Gardner plant petunias in it?

Gas can man hollers to gas can truck driver / gas can unloader man to return the big can to the truck in exchange for a small can. Then he goes on to tell me that the big local houses go through one big can of LP a day! That’s a lot of cooking. Then, to make sure this white woman, who was stupid enough not to notice that her gas can had expired understands, he adds that a big local house will go through not just one can per day, but 31 cans per month! Wow, you suppose?

All this for an iced soy latte. And I still had to cook dinner for Sir!