Full on!

Day two in this teeming city of anywhere from 10-15 million people! And everything about it surely is full on. My day started with an introduction by Eric (the American yoga teacher on staff at Yogasala) on how to get to one of the newer yoga studios. There are three, and so far I've only taught at the original one. This 2nd one, is in Etiler, which is a bit out from the central city. Since I hate to rack up the cab fares (not to mention I'm SCARED to ride with these crazy cab drivers) I wanted to learn how to get out there using public transportation. See Stan, I'm always trying to save you money! So Eric and I walked up Istiklal, stopping at one of the three Starbucks on the maybe 3/4 of a mile long strip. In general yoga people are caffeine fiends and the Turks drink coffee almost as much as they smoke cigarettes, so you can only imagine.

At Taksim Square, we descended to the Metro station, the Istanbul subway. We rode almost to the last stop, then walked several blocks to get a cab. The walk isn't necessary, there ARE cabs, but if you get a cab at the Metro stop, it is going in the wrong direction and has to circle around to get going in the correct direction. So, by walking several blocks you save a few Lira. There I go again, saving Stan money. So, I have these notes that read like this, "Out of Metro station, turn left. Walk to the big car bill board past the construction then turn left. Walk to the end of that street throught the little square, then turn right." And so on. Get the point? It's real specific.

After several of these twists and turns we pop in to Eric's 2nd stop en route, a Turkish bakery for three pogacas. They are delightful little bakery delicacies. Savory, not sweet. This guy, who can't weigh 150 lbs has already nailed a Starbuck's big-as-your-head muffin. THEN we hail a cab. When I get in the cab I am supposed to make sure the cab driver knows how to get to Kortel (How am I supposed to do this? Cab drivers do not speak English, and you know what I don't speak.) Or if that fails, we go straight, one right turn, then straight again. Yeah, right.

Once out at the studio, it is lovely. It is high above the Bosphorus, on what used to be an organic farm. It's a nice break from the pace of the city. Then I get my butt kicked.

I hadn't practiced since Andy and I practiced on Thursday, not to mention the plane ride, so I was pretty stiff. And Eric is basically an Ashtanga purest. He is a student of Manju Jois. We did the primary series in a teeny room with probably 20 students, no air, no fans, no open windows, even though all were available. I'm sure he is trying to recreate Mysore. And it was awesome! Luckily for me he cut me some slack, knowing I was coming off jet lag.

After class, I shared a cab with Mina, one of the students I knew from 2006. We rode to Kanyon, a cool new shopping center. Not a boring suburban shopping center, but an open air, neat architechture shopping center swarming with people. We had multiple lattes (more coffee!) and good conversation. Starting to get weary I pushed on home.

Back to the subway, back to Istiklal street(shown above in a NON-busy time), which is a pedistrian walkway, except cars and trams are allowed. I told you it was full on. They beep or honk or whatever, right before they run you over. But it's the people that amaze you. There are THRONGS of people walking up and down this street. You can barely manuver. It's pretty cool.

Once home at the Pera Rose, I watched the sun set over the Golden Horn, relaxed in the hotel's hamam (Turkish bath) then ordered room service with all the money of Stan's I saved. I'm beat.

Return to Istanbul

It's hard to believe it's been over a year(and a busy one at that!) since I've been to Istanbul. I arrived after a ridiculously long day of flights to Houston, Paris then finally here. The flat I am renting is not available until October 2, so I am staying at the pleasant Pera Rose Hotel, nearby, in Beyoglu, a very Turkish neighborhood. It was admittedly nice to have someone help me with my luggage, turn on the a/c and order room service after the trip. I had a nice walk around the 'hood, thru my favorite alleyway or "sokak" sofyali sokak, made sure my favorite coffee shop, Deli-Bakkal was still there, even saw the Teddy Bear Man (Lynn and Stan?) so all was well in the world. Crashed hard and slept pretty much through with only the once familiar call to prayer waking me temporarily before rousing at 10:15AM local time. Much needed.

I slept through breakfast, so I made my way to Deli-Bakkal (that's Lynn and me at DB in 2006) for my soy cappucino and some country bread with organic butter and sour cherry jam. This cute little cafe is so ME! I hung out for awhile worked on the crossword, drank another coffee and wandered a bit up and down Istiklal, the main drag. There is a new Starbucks (now three on the street) and a new Gloria Jeans right at the top of the hill coming up from the flat. Nice for those pre-class coffees on the way to the studio!

In the afternoon I met some yoga friends at the Istanbul Modern, the modern art museum. The museum is in an old warehouse on the Bosphorous waterfront. It's a great setting. They have a neat cafe, where I enjoyed a fresh OJ waiting for my friends. Once they arrived we walked to the warehouse next door, where part of the Istanbul Art Biennal is showing (there are other locations around the city). It was a cool scene. After that we made our way back up the hill to Music Street, in Galata, where I got a first look at the new yoga studio. This is the third Yogasala location and I'll be teaching at all three.

The group was heading to 360, a very trendy spot for dinner, so I passed. Another early night in for me. I've got the window open and am getting street noises, but from 7 flights up it is pleasant. The air today seemed very hazy and polluted to me, but that might just be me coming from the Midwest. I have a great view of the Golden Horn, and many mosque spires, including the Sulemanyie Mosque. Istanbul is truly one of my favorite cities in the world and it feels good to be back!
Iyi aksamlar!
PS: In case you're wondering, I'm 8 hours ahead of CST.