Puerto Vallarta - a Study in Contrasts

Why Puerto Vallarta? Well aside from the obvious sun, sand, and surf, that’s a good question. My first visit to this interesting town was almost exactly one year ago. Stan and I were invited by our friend Jane to spend a week with her in the Zona Romantica (the Romantic Zone – Old Town). We had a great time last year at Jane’s condo so when the opportunity came up to rent the apartment at Casa Melodia, we jumped on it.

Between that fun week with Jane (and Kay-who also stayed with us) in 2007 and the four weeks (it’s gone so fast!) we’ve been here this year, we have learned quite a bit about this quaint city, affirmed our love for it, and vowed to return!

The first tourists arrived in PV in the 1950’s. In the early ‘60’s film director John Huston chose the then unspoiled beach of the nearby fishing village of Mismaloya as the location for his film The Night of the Iguana. Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor arrived (to carry on with their illicit romance) along with Burton’s co-star in the movie, Ava Gardner. The paparazzi soon followed. From that beginning tourism slowly developed to become PV’s main industry and it remains so today.

During that time of Dick and Liz, the town consisted only of the original Zona Romantica, which sits south of the Rio Cuale River that divides the town, and El Centro, the area just north of the river. Stan and I are staying in the El Centro this year. Dick and Liz owned homes just around the corner from our place. Much like Frida and Diego, their separate casas were (and still are) connected by a walkway. Sounds like a good idea to me!

In today’s world however, much of the tourism spreads to the Hotel Zone, north of the old town and even further north up the bay of Banderas to Nuevo Vallarta, which is actually in a different state and time zone. It is these areas where you will find the big resorts and condo complexes. Think Cancun.

But Stan and I came for the real Puerto Vallarta. I think you can even call it the real Mexico, although that might be a stretch. Even thought PV is basically a bi-lingual town because of the tourist trade, it is still possible to experience a different culture. There are plenty of Mexicans living, working and going about their lives. You can see, hear and smell traditional Mexican life. Puerto Vallarta is a great mix of people and lifestyles. Mexican families live and work; snowbirds and tourists spend their money. There are a few old hippies hanging around who probably came years ago and lament the changes that have taken place. Unfortunately, there are also what we call “package tour sheep” or hordes of people fresh off the cruise ships, but they probably support a big portion of the economy. Also, PV is a big gay vacation destination.

So…..there you have it. Puerto Vallarta is a small city, perhaps 200,000 people, composed of Mexicans, gringo retirees, gays, hippies and tourists-obnoxious and otherwise. However strange it may be, it seems to work.