Well, yesterday was a big day. I checked out of the hotel (no more room service), taught my first yoga classes, transferred all of my stuff to the apartment I'm renting, rode the dolmuche (shared taxi) reaquainted myself with the old 'hood, and got cursed at and spit on by a taxi driver. Don't be alarmed, it just means I've arrived.
And here I am! Stan and I sublet this same apartment last summer, from Tatjana, a nice German woman who does massage therapy at the yoga studio. She also does massage in Kabak, on the Mediterranean coast. We've been lucky enough to hit town when she's away, so we can stay at her place. It is very near the Galata Tower, which is a pretty cool tourist attraction, built in 1384 by the Genoese (pix above.)
http://www.galatatower.net/eng/index.php
The apartment building sits at the end of a little street, wide enough for one car, at the bottom of a big hill coming down from Istiklal Cad, the busy street I've talked about previously. It is a true residential Turkish neighborhood. There are families and children, and gypsies, and kitties, and corner markets where they don't mind if you are a few coins short, with guys who they will carry your big 5 gallon water bottle up the steps for you. The place has a good feel.
Today, I picked up a few groceries and tonight made a big mess in the kitchen. Shame there's no dishwasher! Where's Stan when you need him? I made a simple turkish inspired veggie stew, rich with spices and some onion and potato stowaways from my mom's organic garden in Pleasantville, Iowa. I'm guessing it's the first time Iowa dirt has been washed off a potato in this apartment.
Simple. I sauteed a diced onion and cubanelle pepper, added a chopped potato and the spices. I learned to add the spices here, from Indian cooking, it really kicks it up a notch. (I would have used some garlic, but I didn't have any.) Add approximately one teaspoon each cumin and paprika - the good smoky kind, 1/2 teaspoon ground corriander, 1/4 tsp turmeric and salt, pepper, and crushed red chilis to taste. Saute until the spices are fragrant. Next add three chopped tomatoes and some water, a tablespoon of tomato paste one teaspoon red pepper paste with the seeds, if you can get it. If not, maybe a roasted red pepper and some extra crushed red chilis. Cover and cook the tomatoes down a bit. Then toss in one small eggplant, chopped, one small marrow (like zucchini) chopped, and a handfull of oil-cured black olives. Cook some more, adding water if needed. When tbe veggies are tender, the stew has thickened a little and you are ready to eat, finish with some chopped parsley and green onions. I ate this with a crusty loaf of fresh whole wheat bread, purchased not an hour before at the foot of the Galata Tower, some fresh arugula and a scoop of yogurt. I know, it's weird, but the Turks eat yogurt as a side dish. Try it. It adds protein to a veggie meal and cools the intensity of the spices and the richness of the tomato and red pepper paste. Yum. Some cooked chickpeas would have been a nice addition, but I was too lazy.
Afiyet olsun!
7 comments:
"Where's Stan when you need him?"
He's drinking beer and playing poker with his friends.
Taxi driver treat you that way for a bad tip?
Bob, I hope Stan IS doing that, if he's not gonna clean up after me. Will you make sure that he does drink some beer and play some poker?! Ya, well, the taxi driver and I, well, we had er a sort of misunderstanding about his fare.
So last night I was watching Top Chef (I know, I know, bad reality tv, but I like it anyway) and one of the chefs made scallops with purslane and marinated grapes. If it hadn't been for your post I would not have known what purslane was. The judges loved it. So now I'll have to try it - I'm going to look for it at the market this weekend. Thanks for the unique food tips!
Lisa, what the communicator you are. I love reading your blog. My question to you is this...Do you work on each sentence that you write, or do you just write it out effortlessly, like you're talking? I would love to be able to write like you do. For me,... it's kind of like a white guy trying to dance...the writing comes out sort of deliberate and unnatural. Anyway, keep entertaining us. I am in East Timor & Henna is back in the Philippines visiting her family. We will hook back up on Oct 13 for the medical mission we are doing in Henna's home town, (with 30-35 people from Kansas City) The day before we left we decided to cancel the Burma visit @ Yin Yin's request. We really wanted to go, & feel like we witnessing some type of historical drama...but Yin Yin was so insistent we don't come. I think she, as a university professor, might be feeling some pressure from the police or the government....her emails to us had certain parts of sentences deleted. We told her we were happy to come to Burma even if it meant sitting in a dark hotel without electricity for 5 days, but I got the impression she might have gotton in trouble if we came. Anyway, I'm going on a hiking trip in central Papua for a few days & Henna is going to visit some remote islands in the Northern Philippines Keep up the good work, Steve
Teresa, I love it! Did you have any luck finding purslane this AM? I bought some myself, at the organic market here. I'll make the yogurt thing. I like it raw, chopped up in salads, too. But with scallops! OOH LA LA! You'll have to try that one for me
Steve,
Thanks but I think you express yourself quite well! What's East Timor like? You should be recording all of your travels. No, Yin Yin was right, there's no way we can know what's really going on in Burma. I'm no scaredy cat, but I'm glad you didn't go. It was the right call.
so everyone's adventures from getting spit on to making unique dishes to hiking, preparing for medical mission trips...geez even drinking beer and playing poker would be better than what I'm doing. We're barely staying afloat here in JAX and me - well unpacking still. How interesting I was just reading about Burma as well as researching different missions (not in Burma). Okay, good to hear from you Lisa and you are an excellent writer!! Amy
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